Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Nyamyumba, Kigali - Weeks 3 & 4


I was really looking forward to Nyamyumba because I excited to make the transition from a busy city to a small, rural village and I was interested in learning about a more traditional Rwandan way of life. And I definitely got to experience that. In Nyamyumba our guides were Leon (who leads the NGO we worked with when the founder isn’t there) and Teddy (she also works for the NGO).

The drive from Kigali to Nyamyumba (with a stop in Buhtari – the old capital) was a bumpy one…I have never been as car sick as I get here with all the potholes and uneven roads…all part of the fun! But the trip was also beautiful. Rwanda is also called “the land of a thousand hills” and damn, are those hills breathtaking.

Drive from Kigali to Nyamyumba - hills on hills on hills

Coming into the village we were greeted by running children yelling “ciao-oh” after us. They learned to say “ciao” to any white person, but pronounce an extra syllable at the end, so cute. You could see from the streets that people didn’t have much. The houses were small and simple with a fenced yard and small garden. But you could also see that they didn’t need much to be happy either. I witnessed the biggest smiles and best laughter from both children and adults in Nyamyumba and I will never forget that.

We were there to teach English to primary school students (ages ranging from 8 to 15) through an organization called Mabawa. Mabawa basically built Nyamyumba from the ground up after the genocide and provides stability for all of its residents. Homes, schools, and terraces were built, running water and electricity were installed, and cows were purchased for each family. The village is still growing, but Mabawa is a truly amazing organization and you can see the appreciation in the people of Nyamyumba when they talk about Mabawa or Katrine (the founder).

We quickly adjusted to the slower pace of the village, which included teaching class in the morning, lounging in the sun until the afternoon, working on the terraces until teatime, and playing cards and/or watching a movie after dinner.  We had a lot of free time, but it was really nice to have time to relax and think – after seeing such a different world there was certainly lots to think about.

Teaching the students was an absolutely incredible experience. They put in so much effort to learn English (we taught them nouns, verbs, conversational expressions, and worked on sentences through games, songs, and writing) and they were able to teach us some Kinyarwanda!

Izuba – sun
Ibyatsi – grass
Umuneke – banana
Mushiki – sister
Umuvandimwe – brother
Inshuti – friend

…my Kinyarwanda vocabulary is quickly expanding.

These kids have some of the greatest personalities and I miss them dearly already. It’s amazing how quickly you can bond with kids who don’t even speak the same language as you. After class everyday they would walk us all the way home, carrying our bags, teaching us more Kinyarwanda, and using our phones to play music and take pictures. And they really loved to take pictures. Even during their recess they would ask for our cameras and phones to take pictures of each other, the scenery, anything they could think of. Some of them were pretty good too. I let them take my phone for the whole walk home and would get it back at the gate to our house and I always found the most amazing photographs. Not only do I have pictures of beautiful Nyamyumba, but I have Nyamyumba captured through the eyes of its children.


Students in the classroom


Selfies with my girl, Clementine

In the afternoons we would normally go to work on the terraces. We met the lady whose terraces we were planting – she was en elderly woman who had no husband or children and in order for her to get a cow she needed to be able to grow food for the animal. We planted many rows of French Cameroon (feed for the cows) in order to help her. She was so thankful. However, I, being the stubborn girl that I am, refused to wear gloves because none of the villagers wore gloves when they worked and so I had to deal with blisters on top of blisters for a few weeks, but it wasn’t too bad.



We also worked on building a house one day. One group was in Nyamyumba the weeks we were in Kigali and they had already started the house. We carried bags of sand from a pile up to the house that would be used to make concrete. It was hard work, but for fun we tried to carry the bags on our head like the women in Rwanda do. We failed horribly, but it was worth a try – I don’t understand how they can make balancing huge things on their head look so easy! The women laughed at us as we walked and we were laughing at ourselves too.

One day we went on a hike, which passed by one source of the Nile. The part we saw was barely more than a stream of water, but I thought that was one of the coolest things we saw. The Nile River literally gives life to millions of people and I got to feel that energy. The views from the top were incredible also. We looked out onto the terraces we worked on and what seemed like all of Rwanda laid below. We got back just as the sun was setting – definitely one of the best hikes I’ve ever been on.

Beautiful view from the hike 

A source of the Nile River

The food in the village was amazing. It was all so fresh, much of which came from the garden outside our house or from markets within the village. Leon cooked and let me tell you, he is an excellent cook. We ate and drank (Leon always made sure we had red wine to go with dinner) well. I’m especially going to miss the fresh mangoes, avocadoes, and pineapples the most. Once we bought 6 avocadoes for 200 Rwandan Francs, which is equivalent to about 20 for $1. On Thanksgiving, we prepared turkey, potatoes, and green beans. Leon had never tasted turkey let alone cooked one, so it was an interesting/hilarious experience for all of us. The turkey ended up being very chewy (turkeys in Rwanda aren’t fattened up like they are in the States) and Leon had a very creative way of carving the turkey (basically ripping it apart down the middle with his hands). Not exactly a home-style Thanksgiving, but we sure had so many things to be thankful for.

Leon and Taylor with our turkey

The last day of class (which also happened to be on Thanksgiving, what a lovely coincidence) the students put on a traditional Rwandan dance for us and made speeches (which had to be translated, but were still heartwarming) about saying goodbye. We all ended up crying, which caused the students to cry to. It was so sad, but I’m so happy we got the opportunity to meet them and learn from them. I hope in a few years I’ll have a way of getting updates on them through Mabawa. I know they’re going to grow up to do great things.

Last day treat of Mandazi (tea cakes) and soda

Traditional Rwandan dance

Leaving the village was very hard and it was also weird to transition back to the chaos of Kigali. However, we were only there for a few nights to meet up with the other group before heading off on our excursion for the last week. 




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